Eating Out in Italy

Eating Out in Italy (Excerpted from http://www.slowtrav.com/italy)

Caffes

Caffes, also referred to as bars or caffetterias (pronounced kahf-feht-eh-REE-ah - don't confuse this with the American "cafeteria" which is more closely related to the Italian "tavola calda"), are found in nearly every town.  An Italian caffe serves coffee drinks, tea, juices and sodas, alcohol, and some food items . . . 

How to Order

How you order and pay for your drinks in a caffe depends on how the caffe is run. Have a good look around when you go into a new caffe to figure it out. Usually they use one of the following three common systems.

1) Order and pay at the bar

In the smaller towns the caffes all work the same way. You go into the caffe and stand at the bar until it is your turn. There may be other people standing at the bar - some drinking their espressos, some waiting to pay for newspapers if the bar also sells papers, others waiting to order. You are served in the order in which you arrive. Never interrupt the bartender; he will speak to you when he is ready. When it is your turn, the bartender usually says "dica", which means literally "tell me". Tell him what you want. You do not pay until you have finished your drinks. If you want to sit at a table outside, tell him that. The drinks will be brought out to you. Otherwise, he will put your drink in front of you on the counter.  When you have finished your coffee and are ready to leave, get his attention and tell him you would like to pay. He will ring up the order and, if he knows you do not speak Italian well, will hand you the printed receipt so you can read the total. Put your money on the plate that sits on the counter beside the register . . . He will take the money and put your change there. Take your receipt with you. Say "grazie, arrivederci".

2) Pay at the cashier, order at the bar

If you want a coffee standing at the bar in a larger caffe (e.g. the Autogrill caffes on the Autostrada, larger caffes in Siena and Florence), you go to the cashier, tell her what you want, and pay. She gives you a receipt. You take this receipt to the bar and put it down on the counter with a small coin to "weigh it down". This is the tip for the bartender.  These bars are typically very busy. Just stand and wait until your turn comes. The bartender will take the coin and receipt, read the receipt and tear it at the top (to indicate that it has been used). You repeat your order to him. He will make the drinks and place them before you on the bar.

3) Order from an outside table

If you want to sit at an outside table in a larger caffe, you sit at a table and a waiter takes your order. When they bring your drinks, they will either hand you the receipt and ask you to pay immediately or they will discreetly tuck it under the ashtray and leave it for you. When you are done you can just leave the payment on the table or give it to the waiter. Remember, you pay more for you coffee when you have it at a table . . .

Restaurants (Trattoria, Ristorante)

Understanding the Menu

Nearly every Italian lunch or dinner menu has the following five sections:

*Antipasti: appetizers (singular is antipasto). This is usually served very quickly after you order. Many items will be vegetarian.

*Primi: first courses (singular is primo). This is usually soup, pasta or risotto dishes. Many will be vegetarian.

*Secondi: second courses (singular is secondo). This is the meat section. Some restaurants also include fish dishes here. This course does not come with vegetables; those are ordered separately in the Contorni section. . .

*Contorni: side dishes (singular is contorno). These are usually vegetables: potatoes, spinach, salad, etc. These are served on separate plates and accompany the secondo. You will want to order one or two of these to go with your secondo.

    *Dolci: desserts (singular is dolce).

All menus in Italy are divided into these sections. Even Chinese restaurants divide their menus into these sections. In the evenings, some restaurants will also have a pizza section. You will also order a bottle of water (with or without gas) and your wine. It is acceptable to ask for tap water, but you will notice that most people order bottled water. You can order wine from a wine list, or just ask for the house wine (by the glass, 1/2 liter or a full liter) . . .

How to Order

Do not try to flag down a waiter when you are ready to order. Wait and the waiter will come to you when they are ready to take your order. Order your water and wine first. Then your meal. When you order your meal, order by section of the menu. First your antipasti, then the primi, then the secondi and contorni. Dessert is ordered at the end of the meal. If you are ordering two primi (maybe for the vegetarian in your group), make it clear which dish is served as the first course and which is the second course. There is less confusion if you order each course in the correct order . . .

You do not have to order each course, but in many restaurants the courses are small, so it is not an overwhelming amount of food if you have an antipasto, primo and secondo. However, if you are not that hungry or do not have a large appetite, it is perfectly acceptable to order only one or two of the courses . . . Bread is either already on the table or arrives immediately. Grissini, packaged crispy breadsticks, may also be on the table. Your water and wine also come as soon as you order. Your antipasto usually arrives quickly, but the other courses will be slow to arrive - time is needed for the restaurant to prepare your excellent meal. Think of going out for dinner as being your main activity for the evening. You will probably spend 2 or 3 hours in the restaurant. There will be a wait between the antipasto and the primo. The primo arrives for all people at the same time. There will be a wait between the primo and the secondo. When the secondo arrives, your contorni (side dishes) also arrive . . .

Paying the Bill in a Restaurant

Remember, the bill is not given to you unless you ask for it. Do not be in a rush to leave. It sometimes takes them awhile to calculate the bill and get it to you . ...There is usually a cover charge (pane e coperto). This is usually listed on the menu. If the tip is included, it will be listed on the menu (e.g. "servizio 10%"). If it is not listed on the menu or on the bill, Iadd a 5 - 10% tip. Usually service is NOT included.